Parece redundante dizer que uma caixa iluminada é um diorama
encerrado numa caixa, mas é bom reter esta noção por dois motivos:
1 - O diorama com fundo e laterais vai ser construído em
separado e só no final inserido na caixa.
2 - É imperativo criar uma mockup em cartão, da caixa e da
janela para ir constantemente verificando o efeito. Uma coisa é observar de
cima o diorama, outra é olhar pela janela. A única vez que fugi a fazer uma
mockup completa saiu-me uma caixa do tamanho de um PA. Verdade se diga que a
cena era à escala 1/16, mas caramba! Como é complicado manuseá-la.
It
seems redundant to say that a light box is a diorama contained in a box, but
it's good to retain this notion for two reasons:
1 - The diorama bottom and sides will be built separately and only at the end inserted into the box.
2 - It is imperative to create a mockup in cardboard Constantly check the work through the window. One thing is to look down at the diorama; another is to look through the window. The only time I didn’t made a complete mockup I end up with a box the size of a loudspeaker. The scale was 1/16, but damn! How complicated is handling it.
1 - The diorama bottom and sides will be built separately and only at the end inserted into the box.
2 - It is imperative to create a mockup in cardboard Constantly check the work through the window. One thing is to look down at the diorama; another is to look through the window. The only time I didn’t made a complete mockup I end up with a box the size of a loudspeaker. The scale was 1/16, but damn! How complicated is handling it.
Dois parafusos na base da caixa
seguram o diorama
Tento manter
as dimensões das caixas em 40 x 30cm de base. Obriga-me a ser sincrético,
arranjar um ponto focal forte na composição e não me deixar dispersar em
pormenores avulsos. Mas isso aplica-se a todos os dioramas a meu ver.
Uma vez
perguntaram-me por que razão faço as janelas (a abertura por onde se vê o
diorama) tão pequenas. Desejo proporcionar uma experiencia pessoal a cada
observador. Um de cada vez. O proscenium ajuda a “limpar” a mente de
distrações, para quando aproximar a cara da janela ter uma visão intimista de
um mundo em miniatura; esquecer a sua própria “escala” e “entrar” na escala do
diorama.
I try to keep the dimensions of the boxes in 40 x 30cm
base. It forces me to be syncretic, get a strong focal point in the composition
and not disperse into details. But this applies to all the dioramas in my view.
Once I was asked why to build small windows (the opening through which one views the diorama). I want to provide a personal experience for each viewer. One at a time. The proscenium helps "clean up" the mind of distractions, so that when the viewer places himself close to the window, he feels an intimate view of a world in miniature; forget its own "scale" and "merge" in the diorama scale.
Once I was asked why to build small windows (the opening through which one views the diorama). I want to provide a personal experience for each viewer. One at a time. The proscenium helps "clean up" the mind of distractions, so that when the viewer places himself close to the window, he feels an intimate view of a world in miniature; forget its own "scale" and "merge" in the diorama scale.
ILUMINAÇÃO
Quando
comecei a fazer caixas iluminadas, o que havia facilmente no mercado eram as
lâmpadas fluorescentes circulares. Lâmpadas miniatura a trabalhar a 12V
utilizadas no modelismo ferroviário e fibra óptica. Continuo a
achar a lâmpada fluorescente circular a melhor opção. Tem a potência suficiente
e distribui muito bem a luz. Umas pinceladas de amarelo aquecem a “frieza” da
luz.
LIGHTING
When I started building boxed dioramas, what was easely available in the market were circular fluorescent lamps, modelrailway bulbs working at 12V rail and optical fiber. I still think the circular fluorescent lamp to be the best. It has enough power and distributes the light very well. A few dabs of yellow, heat the “cold" light.
When I started building boxed dioramas, what was easely available in the market were circular fluorescent lamps, modelrailway bulbs working at 12V rail and optical fiber. I still think the circular fluorescent lamp to be the best. It has enough power and distributes the light very well. A few dabs of yellow, heat the “cold" light.
The diorama slides in to the box
A frieza da
luz fluorescente é aquecida com acrílico amarelo da Tamiya
The cold bluish is warmed with acrylic Tamyia
yellow
Uma lâmpada
foi adicionada no final para compensar uma sombra excessiva.
An additional lamp was installed in the last minute to
compensate the excessive shade on that corner.
CONSTRUÇÃO DE
UMA CAIXA
Prefiro a
tampa à frente, aparafusada para não ter surpresas desagradáveis no transporte. Há que contar
com espaço extra por cima do diorama para ter suficiente volume de ar que
disperse o calor emanado pela lâmpada. Além disso, é bom tentar esconder o
melhor possível a lâmpada. É quase inevitável que as pessoas depois de olharem
para o diorama procurem descobrir a fonte de iluminação. Sossega-as, mas em
ilusionismo há uma regar que diz nunca revelar como se fazem os truques. Para
optimizar a iluminação colo folha de alumínio (dos rolos que se usam nas
cozinhas) no tecto da caixa e na face interior da tampa. Obtenho alguns ganhos,
reflectindo a luz que vem de cima. Quando testo o efeito do diorama na mockup
uso um spotligth. A iluminação definitiva é diferente, mas com o que tenho,
procuro descobrir as sombras indesejáveis para prever focos de iluminação
adicionais. Hoje com os LEDs de alto brilho essa tarefa está muito facilitada.
CONSTRUCTION OF A BOX
I prefer to place the lock at the front, screwed to avoid unpleasant surprises when handling the box.
Extra space above the diorama is requiered to have enough volume of air to disperse the heat from the lamp. Also, it is good to try to hide it the best possible. It is almost inevitable that people after looking at the diorama seek to discover the source of illumination. Quiets them, but there is a rule of thumb in illusionism, never to reveal the tricks. To optimize the illumination, aluminum foil (used in kitchen) is glued on the ceiling of the box and the inner face of the lid. It helps disperse evenly the light coming from above. During construction I test the lighting with spotlight. The final lighting is different, but it helps anyhow to anticipate the final results and check where will I need extra spots. Today with the high brightness LEDs this task is much easier.
I prefer to place the lock at the front, screwed to avoid unpleasant surprises when handling the box.
Extra space above the diorama is requiered to have enough volume of air to disperse the heat from the lamp. Also, it is good to try to hide it the best possible. It is almost inevitable that people after looking at the diorama seek to discover the source of illumination. Quiets them, but there is a rule of thumb in illusionism, never to reveal the tricks. To optimize the illumination, aluminum foil (used in kitchen) is glued on the ceiling of the box and the inner face of the lid. It helps disperse evenly the light coming from above. During construction I test the lighting with spotlight. The final lighting is different, but it helps anyhow to anticipate the final results and check where will I need extra spots. Today with the high brightness LEDs this task is much easier.
Interior da
caixa pintado de preto
Inside of the box painted black
A tampa vista
de dentro. Folha de alumínio para reflectir a luz. Parafusos nos cantos para
segurar firme a tampa.
The lock seen from inside. Aluminum foil to reflect
the light. Screws in each corner to hold fast in place.
Um cabo longo
(mínimo 3 metros) e um interruptor
A long wire (minimum 3 meters) and a switch
Sem comentários:
Enviar um comentário